Capitalism - Feudalism without the Kings
Tax the Rich
Tax the Rich
Knitting Friday - KAL for sleeveless top continued
Last Friday, I left you with instructions to make the neckband in seed stitch and then double your number of cast on stitches so you could start knitting for the yoke. I left you with the pattern for the yoke but anyone who visited the site on Saturday saw that I had edited the yoke pattern because I had posted the wrong one on Friday. That is, instead of my typical two rounds of K and two rounds of *YO, K2tog* (which I posted by mistake), the KAL is worked in two rounds of K and one round of *YO, K2tog.* This makes a subtle difference in the look though the "wrong" pattern gives more elasticity.
Knowing from my own participation in KALs that life intervenes with knitting, I'm going to make this Friday a breather; that is, you'll have another week to cast on, work the neckband and then work the yoke pattern for the inches needed from the base of your neck to the top of your shoulder. (Check the last two Fridays for more instructions.)
What I'd like to talk about briefly today is different stitch patterns. So, if you haven't started your yoke you may want to choose one from the list below. (Just a word of caution: I chose the KAL pattern(s) listed above because of their give. If you have already swatched for these patterns don't use your results for any other pattern you may choose from the lists below. Unless you are an experienced knitter, you have got to swatch for every pattern since some stitches have very little give and I don't think any knitter knits with the same tension all the time.)
And, another word of caution: There are many simple stitch patterns listed below which you can use with no problem. However, changing a pattern knitted flat (as those listed below are) can be tricky. Don't get discouraged. Save this conversion for another day if you run into trouble and use the pattern I gave you.
Here's a list of websites with stitch patterns:
http://www.craftcookie.com/
written and charted with pictures
http://www.free-knit-stitch.com/
charts and pictures only
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/stitches.htm
written instructions only with pictures
http://www.knittingpatterncentral.com/directory/stitches.php
sends you to other websites so this is a real grab bag
A couple of things to remember when you look at these stitch patterns:
1. Always make a swatch, both for gauge and so you will able to "read" the pattern.
2. You are working from the top down so the pattern you are looking at will be upside down. So, for example, if you choose an owl motif, the owls will be hanging from their feet. (Note: You can work stitch patterns backwards, say from Row 8 down to Row 1 but you have to be careful since decreases slant the opposite way, etc. Not a good variation for beginner knitters.)
3. You are working in the round so if you're looking at a stockinette-based pattern, the "wrong" side rows will be K and not P in the round.
4. You must "understand" your pattern repeats before you double your stitches at the base of the neckband or else you'll increase to the wrong number for the pattern.
5. There is no rule that you can't add or subtract a few stitches to get the multiple you need for your stitch pattern. Example: if your swatch says you need 160 stitches when you start the yoke and your pattern repeat calls for x7 (161 stitches, 23 x 7), just K front-back-front in one stitch to increase your 80 neckband stitches to 161.
Let me expand on # 3and #4 with a trinity stitch pattern:
Multiple of 4 Row 1 (RS): p
Row 2: *k1, p1, k1 in next stitch, p3tog*
Row 3: p
Row 4: *p3tog, k1, p1, k1 in next stitch*
Here's how I would then use this pattern, after swatching:
1. I would look at the multiple. It's x4 so 160 (40 x 4) stitches are fine.
2. I would look at the RS rows and see they want a purl look but I would also look at the P3togs on the WS rows. Since the P3tog will give the texture, I'd change the RS rows to K. And that's it.
Here's a slightly more complicated stitch:
Multiple of 4 + 2 Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: p2, *k2, p2*
Row 4: k2, *p2, k2*
1. I would eliminate the +2 because if I start my round with the P2, at the end of the round I'm working another P2 (*K2, P2*) so that section would have 4 purls (end the round with P2 and start round with P2.)
2. I would just work the stitches within the asterisks which is a multiple of 4 so, again, 160 stitches work.
3. I would see that the first two rows are K so they want a garter look. For in the round knitting, I would change Row 2 to P to get the garter look.
4. Finally, looking at the swatch I made, I would see that in Rows 3 and 4, it's 2 P over 2 K across. That would give me a nice texture and I would be good to go.
These are just two simple pattern alternations to get you started. It can get tricky fast but that can be fun if you want a challenge.
Next week: The neckband and yoke sections should be done. We make armholes and I show you how to add sleeves if you want.
Last Friday, I left you with instructions to make the neckband in seed stitch and then double your number of cast on stitches so you could start knitting for the yoke. I left you with the pattern for the yoke but anyone who visited the site on Saturday saw that I had edited the yoke pattern because I had posted the wrong one on Friday. That is, instead of my typical two rounds of K and two rounds of *YO, K2tog* (which I posted by mistake), the KAL is worked in two rounds of K and one round of *YO, K2tog.* This makes a subtle difference in the look though the "wrong" pattern gives more elasticity.
Knowing from my own participation in KALs that life intervenes with knitting, I'm going to make this Friday a breather; that is, you'll have another week to cast on, work the neckband and then work the yoke pattern for the inches needed from the base of your neck to the top of your shoulder. (Check the last two Fridays for more instructions.)
What I'd like to talk about briefly today is different stitch patterns. So, if you haven't started your yoke you may want to choose one from the list below. (Just a word of caution: I chose the KAL pattern(s) listed above because of their give. If you have already swatched for these patterns don't use your results for any other pattern you may choose from the lists below. Unless you are an experienced knitter, you have got to swatch for every pattern since some stitches have very little give and I don't think any knitter knits with the same tension all the time.)
And, another word of caution: There are many simple stitch patterns listed below which you can use with no problem. However, changing a pattern knitted flat (as those listed below are) can be tricky. Don't get discouraged. Save this conversion for another day if you run into trouble and use the pattern I gave you.
Here's a list of websites with stitch patterns:
http://www.craftcookie.com/
written and charted with pictures
http://www.free-knit-stitch.com/
charts and pictures only
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/stitches.htm
written instructions only with pictures
http://www.knittingpatterncentral.com/directory/stitches.php
sends you to other websites so this is a real grab bag
A couple of things to remember when you look at these stitch patterns:
1. Always make a swatch, both for gauge and so you will able to "read" the pattern.
2. You are working from the top down so the pattern you are looking at will be upside down. So, for example, if you choose an owl motif, the owls will be hanging from their feet. (Note: You can work stitch patterns backwards, say from Row 8 down to Row 1 but you have to be careful since decreases slant the opposite way, etc. Not a good variation for beginner knitters.)
3. You are working in the round so if you're looking at a stockinette-based pattern, the "wrong" side rows will be K and not P in the round.
4. You must "understand" your pattern repeats before you double your stitches at the base of the neckband or else you'll increase to the wrong number for the pattern.
5. There is no rule that you can't add or subtract a few stitches to get the multiple you need for your stitch pattern. Example: if your swatch says you need 160 stitches when you start the yoke and your pattern repeat calls for x7 (161 stitches, 23 x 7), just K front-back-front in one stitch to increase your 80 neckband stitches to 161.
Let me expand on # 3and #4 with a trinity stitch pattern:
Multiple of 4 Row 1 (RS): p
Row 2: *k1, p1, k1 in next stitch, p3tog*
Row 3: p
Row 4: *p3tog, k1, p1, k1 in next stitch*
Here's how I would then use this pattern, after swatching:
1. I would look at the multiple. It's x4 so 160 (40 x 4) stitches are fine.
2. I would look at the RS rows and see they want a purl look but I would also look at the P3togs on the WS rows. Since the P3tog will give the texture, I'd change the RS rows to K. And that's it.
Here's a slightly more complicated stitch:
Multiple of 4 + 2 Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: p2, *k2, p2*
Row 4: k2, *p2, k2*
1. I would eliminate the +2 because if I start my round with the P2, at the end of the round I'm working another P2 (*K2, P2*) so that section would have 4 purls (end the round with P2 and start round with P2.)
2. I would just work the stitches within the asterisks which is a multiple of 4 so, again, 160 stitches work.
3. I would see that the first two rows are K so they want a garter look. For in the round knitting, I would change Row 2 to P to get the garter look.
4. Finally, looking at the swatch I made, I would see that in Rows 3 and 4, it's 2 P over 2 K across. That would give me a nice texture and I would be good to go.
These are just two simple pattern alternations to get you started. It can get tricky fast but that can be fun if you want a challenge.
Next week: The neckband and yoke sections should be done. We make armholes and I show you how to add sleeves if you want.
No comments:
Post a Comment