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Knitting Friday -  The Shawl Pattern, Crocheted Version

The Nameless Shawl, the slightly crescent crocheted version (which I love, though nameless, because you work to length and then to width so if you don't have enough yarn you get a scarf and not a visit to the frog pond):

Background: This shawl is made up of loops or "little boxes" with sides of double crochet or a chain 3 and each top and bottom as a chain 5. If you use a large hook and thin yarn, you'll get large loops. If you use a smaller hook, the loops will be smaller and you'll probably have a warmer shawl. I've made these shawls for summer wear over tanks and camis with crochet thread using an E hook and using a K hook.  In the  winter, using wool and wrapped around your neck, they can be as warm as thermal. Below the directions, I have pictures to explain what might be tricky if you're working your first shawl.

Abbreviations: Ch = chain; DC = double crochet; SC = single crochet; T = turn

Hook and Yarn Choice: See above but work #1 and #2 below in the Foundation Row section with a hook at least one size larger than the one used for the rest of the shawl.

Cast On: Ch a multiple of 5 ch + 8 ch. (I do a Ch 38  for 30 + 8.) 

Foundation Row: Use larger hook
1.  In the 13th ch from the hook make a DC.  (The 13 chains make the bottom of  a loop [5 ch], the side of a loop [3 ch] and top [5 ch]. The DC you make forms the last side of the loop.)
2.  *Ch 5 and work a DC in each 5th chain to the end*.  (6 loops) 

Pattern Row w/ Increases to Length:  Use your regular hook
1.  T. (Mark this row as your RS. On this row, the beginning yarn hangs on the right side of the row.)
2.  [ Ch 8 (= 1 DC and 5 ch)  and work a DC into the first loop. Ch 5 and work a DC into the same loop. (2 DC in first loop.)
3.  Continue *Ch 5 and make one DC in each loop* across to the last loop.
4.  At the last loop: *Ch 5 and work a DC in last loop, 2xs*] (2 DC in last loop.)
5.  T and work every row as stated in [#2, #3, and #4.]
6.  Continue working this row until your shawl is long enough. Be sure to end ready to work a RS row.

To remember in Pattern Row w/Increases to Length section:
1. Every row begins with Ch 8 but for the rest of the row, you work Ch 5.
2. Increases occur at the beginning of the row only. That's why you have to work a RS row and a WS row for the pattern (even though it's the same row) in order to keep the increases balanced.
3. You know you're at the last loop because every last loop ends with a ch 8, not a ch 5. You should be able to tell the difference. Use a movable marker if you can't.

Pattern  to Width: No Increase Section

1. From the RS: [Ch 8 and work one DC in the first loop.
2.  *Ch 5 and work one DC in each loop across, even the last loop.* T]
3.  Repeat [# 1& #2]  to your desired width. End with your RS facing.

To remember in Pattern to Width section:
1. Every row begins with a ch 8 but uses a ch 5 for the rest of the row.
2. There is only one DC in each loop; no increases;

3. Use a movable marker on the first and last loops of every row though the Ch 8 should remind you that you're at the last loop.

4. Count the number of loops in your first row. This number shouldn't change.

That's it. You can wear the shawl as is or work an edging around the whole shawl or just the bottom. Depending on the type of yarn I use, sometimes I block this shawl, sometimes I don't.

 

Pictures:

#1 The CO

#2 The Foundation Row

 

 

#3 Increases

#4 More increases

#5 No increase section

 

1. This is the CO of a multiple of 5 ch + 8 ch. The blue yarn shows the 13th chain from the hook.

2. The foundation row with the blue yarn hanging shows where you made your first DC in the 13th chain from the hook. When you flip the foundation row over to start the next row, you will be crocheting on the RS.

3. The blue row is your first increase row. Count the loops in the foundation row (6.) In the blue row you get 8 and in the top white row you get 10. You've made 4 "balanced increases.The beginning yarn is on the RS so you are ready to work a RS row.

4. More increases. If you can enlarge this picture, you'll see three pennies in loops on both sides. They show that you must work a RS and a WS row before you get your 4 balanced increases. (Two pennies in the beginning loop for increase loops. One penny in the last loop for no increase - even though both the first loop have two DCs worked into them.) You can see the crescent shape forming. Notice I forgot to mark my RS row. 

 5. I've started to crochet the No Increase section. I've marked the first and last loops with long blue yarn and if you count the loops on the blue yarn row and the top row, you'll find the loops are the same number. You can also see that the edges of the shawl don't curve like picture #4 anymore.

 

Final thoughts: 

1. The top of the shawl (by the blue row #5) come out a bit rather than making the perfect top of a crescent.  You can block this into "line" or just turn it over for a small "collar" under your hair.

2. A real plus feature of this shawl is that the ends are less wide than the body. Great for folding over and securing with a shawl pin; less bulk and it stays on my shoulders.

3. I just started making this shawl with a Ch 8 at the beginning of each row. Before I just used a Ch 5 and this made the top of the shawl definitely tighter than the bottom (which was easy for finding the difference.) I'm hoping this change will loosen things up a bit and may even change the shape from slightly crescent to almost rectangle. When I get my first revised shawl done, I'll post a picture.

4. A knitted version of this shawl in garter is OTN right now. As soon  as I'm finished I'll post this version. (Not necessarily in garter but knitted rather than crocheted.) 

5. And really important, please tell me if I've made any mistakes with the pattern. Thanks.

 

Enjoy.