"Capitalism is the Predatory Stage of Human Evolution"

Knitting Friday

OK, it's Saturday. I lie.

I finished the beige cardi/shrug, pictured right, since my last Knitting Friday. It's in Lion Brand Fisherman's Wool and I used one skein and about 1/3 of a second. However, I made it long both body and sleeve wise. Even with that I probably have enough yarn left for a vest. At the bottom, of this post I'm reprinting the generic pattern for this cardi.

You'll notice that the first point in the directions is: If a CO of 50 sts works, use it. If not, just CO the amount you need and increase 20 sts at the end of your collar.

I find that works with DK weight (which I consider yarn that works with US 10.5 needles.) Right now, I'm making a summer one in gray cotton/acyclic and I'm using US 5 for the collar with a CO of 80 sts and then an increase of 20 sts to 100 sts to use with US 6 when I start the yoke.

The second picture shows a blue cardi/shrug with a row of seed stitch every 5 rows on the P side. This sweater is the trial run; that is, done in my "not really for prime time" yarn of Red Heart with Wool (I bought this yarn at a Smiley's hotel sale thinking it would be as nice as Wool Ease - it's not) and it's turning out well. I don't know if I'm going to put rows of seed stitch by the cuff; that could be overdoing it.

I've made three cardis in st st and I decided it was time to add some pattern to this top-down pattern. Top-down patterns are tricky with yoke patterns because every RS row has the increases. You can work cables, lace, etc. in the middle of each section but a complete row pattern is trickier. However, you can work in a one row, 2 stitch pattern if you work it on the P row.

I got this idea from a top-down cardigan which ran rows of garter throughout the yoke. Since my front bands are seed I changed my rows to seed. Next time, I want to work the P row in *YO, K2tog* followed by a P row of *K2tog, YO* (to prevent a slant.)

You can probably tell that I love these cardis (hate the name, though.) They are the first garment I have made, beside shawls, over 2 years. I had given up with pullovers some time ago and concentrated on shawls (still my best love) but these cardis are so easy, so addictive and so versatile.

Try one, you'll see what I mean. See you next Friday. Happy Knitting.

Generic Cardi/Shrug - I think I posted this before but I can't find it
(Note: I got the inspiration for this pattern from the Cali Cardi which is still listed on Ravelry but the link to the pattern doesn't work. Plus, the pictures shown on Ravelry are not of the Cardi I first saw at the flyhoney.com site [now defunct.] So I guess the closest representation of the original is now my pattern.)

All I copied from the Cali Cardi pattern was the CO 50 sts and the increase to 70 sts at the end of the collar. After that, I didn’t follow the directions. Here’s what I would recommend.
1. If a CO of 50 sts works, use it. If not, just CO the amount you need and increase 20 sts at the end of your collar. Be sure the increase leaves you with a multiple of 5.
2. I worked about one and ½ inch of collar in seed stitch (Seed is very “giving” so you don’t need to make a buttonhole.) before I increased to 70 stitches.
3. I did my increases in a purl row so I was ready to start the body and raglan increases from the RS.
4. I used US 8 needles for the collar and the bottom hem and US 10.5 for the body with Paton Classic Wool. (I used 3 skeins for a sweater length (not short) and regular sleeve length.
5. After your collar increase, divide the stitches by 5. That amount will be your front stitches, one less than that amount will be your sleeves and 2 more will be your back for:
6. 14 front + 13 sleeve + 16 back + 13 sleeve + 14 front = 70. Put markers between sections.
7. The first and last 5 stitches of the front are done in seed. The body of the cardi is stockinette.
8. I make raglan increases this way: Work to 2 sts before the 1st marker, K f&b in that stitch, K 1, slip marker, K f&b in 1st stitch after marker. Repeat these increases at every marker on your K (RS) rows.
9. Work this way increasing every RS row to your armhole. 8.5 inches for me.
10. Next RS row, work across increasing as usual, to 1st marker, put the sleeve stitches on a holder, work across the back increasing as usual, then put 2nd sleeve on holder, work across 2nd front increasing as usual.
11. Work body to length. Change to US 8 and work hem in seed. Bind off and then work a crochet crab stitch up one side, across the neck and down the other side. Don’t do the bottom hem. This makes a nice edging. Cut yarn.
12. Put sleeve stitches on holder to dpn US 10.5 needles and pick up 2 stitches at the underarm (to match the 2 stitches you increased in the body on #10.
13. Work in the round in K to cuff.
14. Change to US 8 dpn and work your cuff.
15. I work *K1b, P1* for about 3 inches but anything goes here. A short seed cuff would look nice.
16. Steam lightly and you’re done. Add a button to the collar.